[aprssig] Anyone running APRS on a LCD in a car ?
tcwik at stnhbr.com
Tue Jan 24 11:01:44 CST 2006
On 2006.01.24 11:38, Dave Baxter wrote:
> Hi Tim...
> I think a company over there "PowerStream" (http://www.powerstream.com/)
> may be able to help you. They do (among other things) DC input
> "Chargers", so you can fully charge a-n-other battery, from a regular
> 12V vehicle supply (24V versions too)
> They also have a lot of info on battery chemistry, and all sorts of
> how's and why's. Well worth a good poke about.
A good site. Thanks for the pointer.
> About the only place where it's always done right, is in aircraft AFIK.
> Something about car's, trucks, boats etc "already being on the surface"
I try to do aviation spec whenever I can.
> That vehicle was a "Series 3" 109 inch Land Rover (Leaf Springs). If
> you know anyone with one of those, get them to check the condition of
> the wiring where it goes through the toolbox in the back to one set of
> lights. (And add a fuse to the main light switch feed!)
I have a Series 2 109 in the garage that I hope to finish restoring some day.
You are right, the electrics are a bit primitive. I have already upgraded the
fuse panel. For most add-on projects in the car, I try to use circuit breakers
to make recover after repairs a bit easier. Copying aviation practice, you can
"pull" the breaker to isolate circuits when necessary.
> Take care.
> Dave G0WBX.
> PS: It took me a couple of hours, working with a small "flashlight"
> as you'd call it, to isolate the damage while still allowing the front
> "side" lights to work. Started it with a wrench across the starter
> solenoid, and then a slow drive home round minor roads. I couldn't
> afford the recovery charges, and if I'd left it where it stopped, it
> would have been stripped overnight for scrap....
tcwik at stnhbr.com spamtrap: tjc123 at stnhbr.com
Voice: 609-368-2482 Fax: 609-368-3695
More information about the aprssig