[aprssig] info for TM-D710E in car
hans.johnson at gmail.com
Wed Jan 23 18:09:48 CST 2008
While it defeats the DIY spirit, and isn't for the penny pinchers, the
Helroaring Battery Isolators are pretty nifty if you're going to be running
two batteries. They're completely solid state, and rated for either 150A or
300A depending on the model. They basically cut the "house" battery from
the starting battery when the voltage on the bus drops below a threshold.
As a side-benefit, you can basically self-jump yourself if you run your
starting battery down just by hitting a button to combine the two batteries.
The URL is: http://www.hellroaring.com/bic75150.php
I'm looking at getting one of these to hook a second battery for my rig and
an inverter, so that I don't risk running my Jetta's battery down.
On Jan 23, 2008 12:26 PM, Curt, WE7U <archer at eskimo.com> wrote:
> On Wed, 23 Jan 2008, Rick Green wrote:
> > The powerstream device seems totally overkill. I'd go with a simple
> > diode-blocking dual-battery isolator, and an APO3 between the second
> > 'accessory' battery and the radio(s).
> Good solution if you have the space to mount a second battery.
> Would this work better: A 2nd battery connected to the alternator
> after the engine is running via a solenoid, with an APO3 between the
> 2nd battery and the radios?
> The solenoid would have a delayed kick-in for the period when
> starting the engine. Have it kick in after stable charge voltage is
> achieved. Both batteries would get the full charge voltage that
> way, no diode drop.
> Curt, WE7U: <www.eskimo.com/~archer/ <http://www.eskimo.com/%7Earcher/>>
> XASTIR: <www.xastir.org>
> "Lotto: A tax on people who are bad at math." -- unknown
> "Windows: Microsoft's tax on computer illiterates." -- WE7U
> The world DOES revolve around me: I picked the coordinate system!
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Hans Johnson (hjohnson at sfu.ca)
B.ASc, Computer Engineering
Simon Fraser University
... Si hoc legere scis numium eruditionis habes. -- Anonymous
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